• Patch A Hole In Drywall

The main goal priming bare drywall is to seal and equalize the porosity between the surface drywall paper and a variety of drywall compounds and toppings (collectively muds) to provide a solid foundation for paint to bond. We also want wall primer to provide a solid uniform sheen for finish coats of paint, including flat paints.

Continuously painting new construction homes allows us to expose a whole host of product limitations which otherwise may or may not be noticeable painting previously painted surfaces. One major set-back as a result of using a wall primer is finish sheen degradation. Some primers are better than others but nonetheless, some sheen will absorb into the primer coat. The loss of sheen is very apparent in the photo above.

If we were to make a touch-up on the first 24-inch area on the photo above, the area touched-up will have the sheen of the next 24-inch in that photo because the touch-up is still building the true sheen of the paint because true sheen was never achieved with the 1 primer, 1 finish approach. Let's say you get a call, their house is a few years old with builder grade flat paint on the walls and the homeowners want to paint the 16' high foyer wall extending to the back of the house (windows on both ends). Applying an eggshell over some builder flat paints will typically dry fast and may be difficult to achieve a uniform finish. Your best bet here is to apply Zinsser Gardz over the builder flat and proceed with one or two coats of eggshell paint.

Painting over Gardz extends the working time of paint to cover large surfaces with ease. In general, an entire 12x12 room can be rolled entirely and upon completion, the first area rolled remains wet. Extended drying time is required as paint dries on the surface of Gardz. Good The low cost route is using an inexpensive primer over bare drywall and applying one coat of wall paint. There are advantages and disadvantages utilizing this method. Typical Uses One primer, one finish is typically used as a low cost solution when a flat finish is required and level of quality is ignored. Advantages.

Priming Fresh Drywall and Wall. Now most do-it-yourselfers won't have to prime lots and lots of brand-new drywall very. They will soak into the patch.

Primer can be considerably less expensive than paint. One primer coat, one flat coat of paint can produce cosmetic results. One tinted primer coat and one coat of finish can be applied but you lose adhesion or bond some of us need to tape off walls, hang wallpaper over and even wash or scrub depending on what your paint allows. Disadvantages. Uniform finish may not be achieved. Typically of less quality.

Poor adhesion to bare drywall. Poor scrubability aspects. Poor touch-ups. one primer, one eggshell may have poor appearance and touch-ups are likely to show. Primer typically requires MORE attention to rolling than wall paint. If primer is rolled any old way - you may never get the finish to look right no matter how many coats of finish. Nautilus file manager windows.

Utilizing the last pass down method will provide a consistent finish. The finish in the Best Method was done with last pass down. EVERYTHING ABOVE THIS LINE was UPDATED February 11, 2015 Something to think about Something to think about for those of you spraying commercial work. Think about how much you can save on materials utilizing a better method. What is that high-build primer suppose to be shot at 20 mil thick? Spraying walls inherently wastes materials and can be near twice as much vs rolling it.

Here is an interesting tid bit. Same two houses done two different ways. One guy sprayed the walls with 60 gallons and the other rolled it with 15. The guy spraying had a guy back rolling too. What a huge waste of time and money and an extra guy.

Guy spraying spent $1,380 on materials and the guy who rolled it spent $345 There was no difference in workmanship. Funny how a certain manufacturer makes an executive decision to create a primer that requires such a heavy layer be applied cover bare drywall. But that same question also begs the question, was a product like that designed because guys don't know how to paint or does the manufacturer not know how to make a product that works without laying it on as heavy. If you apply anything at 20 mil, it better look good. The argument My argument with using a wall primer is the lack of a fail-safe method and I need that in my business.

While I enjoy the 440i I received from a paint store due to primer failing, I am not going to have another homeowner come back to me complaining she washed the paint and primer off the wall and obviously this has happened to me otherwise I wouldn’t be posting a fix to this problem online. I have a ton of information and previous test on wall primers. Do a Google search on jackpauhl+wall primers or click this The Fix So let’s say you too fell sucker to the “use a primer” method and you are in that same situation where the paint washes off the wall or you had to apply masking tape to do some wild painting scheme seen on TV. There is a fix and leave it to no other than Zinsser to have your back! Zinsser Gardz can be used to apply over a paint that was previously undercoated with primer utilizing the Good method above. Gardz assists with penetrating through paint and the primer and help with bonding them to the drywall and not only that but moving forward with a new coat of paint will give you the ultimate finish you see in the Best method above. I am doing a DIY job in my dining room.

I've read the Gardz arguements, and, after removing wallpaper, I applied Gardz and two skim coats. I'm going for a smooth texture, and there are some small flaws in the wall (very small, very shallow). I want something that will level the flaws.

I plan to apply Gardz over the skim coats (per Gardz instructions) in any case, but I would like to know if and which primer I need to level the minor imperfections. Or if a high quality paint (thinking about the SW Duration, but, again, which one?) will have some leveling qualities and I can omit a primer (after the Gardz, of course)?

I've done this before and hate the texture/quality, and I want to do this right! Haven't used Gardz, but Peel Stop works too. Back in the early '80s most paint I used said on the back, to use a primer or this paint. I always used the paint and not a primer. No call backs.

Patch A Hole In Drywall

When I first started using primer over existing paints or bare drywall or Kilz Premium (absolute worst primer I've ever used for cure time) on bare wood is when I started having problems. One exception to this is when I use Coverstain over bare drywall or existing paint. From my experience, oil primers impregnate themselves into the bare drywall and wood, making for a tight bond of the top coat.

On to skimming an eggshell paint job the owner did over slightly textured wallpaper and repaint it. Probably just reseal with CoverStain or PeelStop. Maybe no primer. Zinsser knows their stuff. Your captcha isn't showing all the time. Tried the handicapped version, that failed and brought forth the letters to type in. Just a square with question mark in it.

Using latest Safari browser on OS X 6.8. Not sure if anyone is replying anymore as this is an old thread. Very interesting though! I recently moved into a 35 year old home, where once we started prepping for a fresh coat of paint, the old paint all peeled off at every gyprock joint, only where the mud/setting compound was used, over all walls and ceiling.

Once past the mud, the original pain stuck to the raw gyprock. I peeled back the old paint, featherd the edges, and used Dulux Acrylic sealer undercoat with ultra smooth to help hide the ridges of old paint. But it proceeded to peel off as well. Im just about to move up stairs and start a new area, would a coat of Peel Stop over the old paint and existing mud joints give the old paint some extra adhesion before I apply a new top coat? Hopefully someone is still keeping track of this Blog haha. I recently primed new drywall walls for a basement room with a SW latex primer and then had to mask with painter's tape in order to spray paint the ceiling.

Significant primer peels off when I removed the tape from any of the green mold-resistant drywall boards that I used. I'm concerned about painting over this but the idea of trying to remove all the primer by sanding or some other means and then re-priming turns my stomach. I contacted Zinsser to ask whether Gardz would help this situation but they advised against it and said that it likely will bond to the faulty primer. But your article suggests this works for you? Can you advise?

Remodeling a modern house. It had horrible orange peel texture. It now has layers of mud.smooth. I decided to experiment with a basement bedroom to see how the primer and paint would look. The paint store recommended Speedhide. At first they sold me the MaxPrime Latex Primer/Sealer. It really soaked in.

I went back for another gallon, and they sold me the Quick-Drying Latex Sealer. They were concerned if I wanted a smooth finish that the MaxPrime might cause too much build up. I'm reading more about MaxPrime, now, and I think it actually would have helped hide more imperfections and pin holes.

Regardless, the sheen on the walls is awful. Looks like I either missed rolling over areas (which i didn't) or the primer soaked in better in various spots. I'm afraid to paint the walls. I bet it will take two coats and I already have two coats of primer. Should I try the Zinnser Guardz?

Should i just move to another room and try the Zinnser? This is a large house and I must get this primer down just right. Can't keep waste more time and money.

Ken Collier: Primers are one of the most important tools in your toolbox for getting great results when you're painting inside your home. My name is Ken Collier and I'm the Editor-in-Chief of The Family Handyman magazine, the leading brand for do-it-yourselfers.

In this video, I'm going to talk about using primers to cover fresh drywall and drywall patches. Now most do-it-yourselfers won't have to prime lots and lots of brand-new drywall very often. But if you do, you should know that there is a primer that's specifically made for going over brand-new drywall. It soaks into the surface of the paper, seals it up, and gives a perfect base for your final paint colors. But what most of us face is that we're going to repaint our walls and there are holes from where we've hung pictures or dents where maybe the kids got a little bit wild and we need to patch those holes and dents before we can repaint.

So I'm here in our studio, and we have a fresh painted wall behind me. And so the first thing I'll do is to create some nail holes and dents. These are some serious nail holes here. And then maybe a couple dents for good measure. So our next task will be to patch these up. I've mixed up some setting type patching compound and we'll fill these dents.

If you're just dealing with shallow dents and nail holes, you could use a plain spackling compound instead of the setting type compound. We'll let this set, let it get dry and we'll put on a second coat, feather it out, sand it, and we'll be ready to prime and paint. Okay, we've patched our walls. Now the problem with patches is that they really soak up the paint, and if you just painted over them with regular paint, you would have a problem called flashing. And when the light is a certain way, wow, it really is obvious that there's a patch underneath the paint.

Primers will solve the flashing problem. They will soak into the patch, seal it up, and give you a nice foundation for the top coats. You have two choices. You can use a premium latex primer, and if your top coats are going to be fairly light-colored, you can use the primer just as is, or you can have it tinted to match your top coat.

The other option is to use a premium primer-paint combination. When using this type of product, you want to put on one coat to spot-prime the patches. And if necessary, perhaps a second spot-prime, and then roll on your top coat and you'll be all done; the gloss will be perfectly uniform. So now I'll apply a little bit of primer and a little bit of paint-primer combination on our patches. First, the primer. I'm using a nylon polyester brush, feathering it out towards the edges to minimize the appearance of the patch, and now I'll put on a little bit of primer-paint combination. These patches we'll leave bare, so maybe we can see what the problem looks like when we're all done.

Now we'll let these dry and we'll be ready to put on our top coats. So our primer is dry and we're ready to apply our top coat. Often it's a good idea to spot-paint over the primer, just to give it another coat and to feather that out.

So we've painted our wall with one coat of top coat and a little spot-painting over the patches. It's drying nicely and it looks like the gloss is going to be perfectly even over this whole wall except for the spot where I didn't prime the patches. Using a primer on your patched wall or if you have a wall with new drywall, this is an important way to get a beautiful painted wall.